Spain: “Tales of the Alhambra”

“Tales of the Alhambra”

Washington Irving

1829

La Alhambra

In the present day, when popular literature is running into the low levels of life, and luxuriating on the vices and follies of mankind; and when the universal pursuit of gain is trampling down the early growth of poetic feeling, and wearing out the verdure of the soul, I question whether it would not be of service for the reader occasionally to turn to these records of prouder times and loftier modes of thinking; and to steep himself to the very lips in old Spanish romance.

-p. 314

another closeup of arabicMany are apt to picture Spain to their imaginations as a soft southern region, decked out with the luxuriant charms of voluptuous Italy.  On the contrary, though there are exceptions in some of the maritime provinces, yet, for the greater part, it is a stern, melancholy country, with rugged mountains, and long sweeping plains, destitute of trees, and indescribably silent and lonesome, partaking of the savage and solitary character of Africa.

-p. 5

To the traveler imbued with a feeling for the historical and poetical, so inseparably intertwined in the annals of romantic Spain, the Alhambra is as much an object of devotion as is the Caaba to all true Moslems.  How many legends and traditions, true and fabulous, – how many songs and ballads, Arabian and Spanish, of love and war and chivalry, are associated with this Oriental pile!

-p. 33

Alhambra court and pool

Perhaps there never was a monument more characteristic of an age and people than the Alhambra; a rugged fortress without, a voluptuous palace within; war frowning from its battlements; poetry breathing throughout the fairy architecture of its halls.  One is irresistibly transported in imagination to those times when Moslem Spain was a region of light amid Christian, yet benighted Europe; externally a warrior power fighting for existence; internally a realm devoted to literature, science, and the arts; where philosophy was cultivated with passion, though wrought up into subtleties and refinements; and where the luxuries of sense were transcended by those of thought and imagination.

-p. 321

Such is the Alhambra; – a Moslem pile in the midst of a Christian land; an Oriental palace amidst the Gothic edifices of the West; an elegant memento of a brave, intelligent, and graceful people, who conquered, ruled, flourished, and passed away.

-p. 59

two doorsA grand line of distinction existed among the Moslems of Spain, between those of Oriental origin and those from Western Africa.  Among the former the Arabs considered themselves the purest race, as being descended from the countrymen of the Prophet, who first raised the standard of Islam; among the latter, the most warlike and powerful were the Berber tribes from Mount Atlas and the deserts of Sahara, commonly known as Moors, who subdued the tribes of the sea-coast, founded the city of Morocco, and for a long time disputed with the Oriental races the control of Moslem Spain.

-p. 106

The Arab invasions and conquest brought a higher civilization, and a nobler style of thinking, into Gothic Spain.  The Arabs were a quick-witted, sagacious, proud-spirited, and poetical people, and were imbued with oriental science and literature.  Wherever they established a seat of power, it became a rallying-place for the learned and ingenious; and they softened and refined the people whom they conquered.

-p. 312

tilesAs conquerors, [the Moors’] heroism was only equaled by their moderation; and in both, for a time, they excelled the nations with whom they contended.  Severed from their native homes, they loved the land given them as they supposed by Allah, and strove to embellish it with everything that could administer to the happiness of man.  Laying the foundations of their power in a system of wise and equitable laws, diligently cultivating the arts and sciences, and promoting agriculture, manufactures, and commerce, they gradually formed an empire unrivalled for its prosperity by any of the empires of Christendom; and diligently drawing round them the graces and refinements which marked the Arabian empire in the East, at the time of its greatest civilization, they diffused the light of Oriental knowledge through the western regions of benighted Europe.

-p. 58

[Alhamar] organized a vigilant police, and established rigid rules for the administration of justice.  The poor and the distressed always found ready admission to his presence, and he attended personally to their assistance and redress.  He erected hospitals for the blind, the aged, and the infirm, and all those incapable of labor, and visited them frequently; not on set days with pomp and form, so as to give time for everything to be put in order, and every abuse concealed, but suddenly, and unexpectedly, informing himself, by actual observation and close inquiry, of the treatment of the sick, and the conduct of those appointed to administer to their relief.  He founded schools and colleges, which he visited in the same manner, inspecting personally the instruction of the youth.  He established butcheries and public ovens, that the people might be furnished with wholesome provisions at just and regular prices.  He introduced abundant streams of water into the city, erecting baths and fountains, and constructing aqueducts and canals to irrigate and fertilize the Vega.  By these means prosperity and abundance prevailed in this beautiful city; its gates were thronged with commerce, and its warehouses filled with luxuries and merchandise of every clime and country.

-pgs. 64-65

There are two classes of people to whom life seems one long holiday, – the very rich and the very poor; one, because they need do nothing; the other, because they have nothing to do; but there are none who understand the art of doing nothing and living upon nothing, better than the poor classes of Spain.

-p. 53

Throughout all Spain the men, however poor, have a gentlemanlike abundance of leisure; seeming to consider it the attribute of a true cavallero never to be in a hurry; but the Andalusians are gay as well as leisurely, and have none of the squalid accompaniments of idleness.

-p. 28

arabic close up on column“Enjoy the moment” is the creed of the gay and amorous Andalusian, and at no time does he practise it more zealously than on the balmy nights of summer, wooing his mistress with the dance, the loveditty, and the passionate serenade.

-p. 94

…For whatever may be said of Spanish pride, it rarely chills or constrains the intercourse of social or domestic life.  Among no people are the relations between kindred more unreserved and cordial, or between superior and dependent more free from haughtiness on the one side, and obsequiousness on the other.  In these respects there still remains in Spanish life, especially in the provinces, much of the vaunted simplicity of the olden times.

-p. 154

shield and arabicThis talent of singing and improvising is frequent in Spain, and is said to have been inherited from the Moors.

-p. 8

Thus the country, the habits, the very looks of the people, have something of the Arabian character.

-p. 6

In fact, Spain, even at the present day, is a country apart; severed in history, habits, manners, and modes of thinking, from all the rest of Europe.

-p. 312

"There is no Conqueror but God"

"There is no Conqueror but God"

As [Alhamar] approached Granada on his return he beheld arches of triumph which had been erected in honor of his martial exploits.  The people thronged forth to see him with impatient joy, for his benignant rule had won all hearts.  Wherever he passed he was hailed with acclamations as “El Ghalib!” (the conqueror).  Alhamar gave a melancholy shake of the head on hearing the appellation. “Wa le ghalib ile Aláh!” (there is no conqueror but God) exclaimed he.  From that time forward this exclamation became his motto, and the motto of his descendants, and appears to this day emblazoned on his escutcheons in the halls of the Alhambra.

-p. 64

The airy palace, with its tall white towers and long arcades, which breasts yon mountain, among pompous groves and hanging gardens, is the Generalife, a summer palace of the Moorish kings, to which they resorted during the sultry months to enjoy a still more breezy region than that of the Alhambra.

-p. 81

vertical columnsHere the hand of time has fallen the lightest, and the traces of Moorish elegance and splendour exist in almost their original brilliancy.  Earthquakes have shaken the foundations of this pile, and rent its rudest towers; yet see ! not one of those slender columns has been displaced, not an arch of that light and fragile colonnade given way, and all the fairy fretwork of these domes, apparently as unsubstantial as the crystal fabrics of a morning’s frost, exist after the lapse of centuries, almost as fresh as if from the hand of the Moslem artist.

-p. 99

With these thoughts I pursued my way among the mountains.  A little further and Granada, the Vega and the Alhambra, were shut from my view and thus ended one of the pleasantest dreams of a life which the reader perhaps may think has been but too much made up of dreams.

-pgs. 344-345

Get your little butt out there!

elaborate room

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